The Soup That Ends the Summer

Tomato soup is, without question, one of my all-time favourites. Over the years I have tried countless versions, asked chefs I trust for their tricks, taken what worked and left the rest, until what's left in my pan is entirely my own.

This time of year is made for it, when the tomatoes are at their gluttonous best, all shapes and sizes crowding the market stalls. For this recipe I reach for the big, meaty ones, the kind with real weight to them.

Serving is where I have the most fun. The children make the croutons, which sounds grander than it is, really just toast cut into small squares, but they're proud of it every time. When I want to make more of an occasion of it, I'll poach an egg on top, though a boiled egg does just as nicely. For a taste of the real Alentejo, the way my grandmother used to serve it: ripe figs, peeled, laid out on a platter alongside.

Once you've made it this way, you'll understand. Nothing quite beats it.

A Note from Mrs H

I like to be generous when I'm feeding family and friends, food is a moment for coming together, not a performance. This soup is made for that, put all the toppings out on the table and let everyone serve themselves. The children love it every time.

The Recipe

Serves 4 (or double the batch for 8 — perfect for a crowd)

Ingredients

• 2kg large, meaty tomatoes
• 1 onion, roughly chopped
• 1 average red pepper, roughly chopped
• 3 medium cloves garlic
• Extra virgin olive oil, a generous glug
• Salt and pepper
• 1 tub crème fraîche

To serve: croutons, a poached or boiled egg, or peeled ripe figs

Method

1. Cut a small cross in the base of each tomato, then blanch in a pan of boiling water until the skins loosen.
2. Peel, quarter, and deseed. Fiddly, but it's what gives the soup its smoothness.
3. Soften the onion, red pepper and garlic in olive oil with a pinch of salt and pepper.
4. Add the tomato flesh (no water, ever), bring to a bubble, then reduce to the lowest setting, lid on, for 30 minutes.
5. Simmer a further 15 minutes, then purée with a stick blender straight in the pot.
6. Stir through the whole tub of crème fraîche — not a dollop, all of it.
7. Serve with homemade croutons, a poached or boiled egg, or, for something closer to the Alentejo, peeled ripe figs. A scattering of salty, crumbly feta works beautifully too.